09/27/2021
🍇 PAÍS (Chile) Pt. II
..Before país became país, it was known as listán prieto, (born in the Castilla-La Mancha region of Spain), and then listán negro (when it moved to Spain's Canary Islands off the coast of Africa). In the early 1500s, a fleet of Spanish missionaries and conquistadors traveled across the Atlantic, a mass of listán negro seeds in tow, and a ruthless vision of continental colonialization. In 1524, Cortez arrived in Mexico and immediately ordered his settlers to spread 1,000 ft of vines per 100 native Indians. The seeds were spread northbound from Mexico City, towards Querétaro, Guanajuato, and San Luis Potosi where they were immediately cultivated by missionaries and rebranded as the 'misión' grape. These vines marked the first European grapes to be planted in the New World.
Around the same time, Spanish conquistadors were making their way down to South America. Entrypoint: Chile’s influential port city of Concepción. And thus set afoot the beginnings of viticulture in South America, with listán prieto, who later became known as país (and collectively in South America as 'creole') as its progenitor. To this day, the Itata River Valley remains one of the world’s largest areas of ungrafted vines, with some país vines up to 300 years old.
In the mid-2000s, after years of debasement and exploitation, país was redeemed. And of all possible people, its revival is most credited to a European: Louis-Antoine Luyt, a French somm turned enologist residing in Chile. A full ironic circle, to say the least. Many other Chilean producers quickly followed suit, namely Roberto Henriquez (influential winemaker in Chile’s southern cool climate Bío-Bío region) and Manuel Moraga of Cacique Maravilla.
Pipeño is essentially Chilean's version of natural 'glou glou', though with a slight twist. Red or white grapes are destemmed then pressed and left to ferment on their skins before ageing in a raulí barrel, American or French oak won't do.
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