04/27/2024
We are conducting a tasting today of Hendrick's newest release, the Grand Cabaret, during the hours of 4:00 - 7:00 PM.
A little about the Gin:
On the nose, there’s no mistaking right away that this is powerfully fruit forward–it really jumps out and takes you by surprise, requiring a few moments to just adjust and recognize what it is exactly that you’re nosing. Fresh peach, apricot and especially passion fruit are hugely present here, but also an underlying fruitiness more akin to cantaloupe or melon. These aromatics are a bit on the candy-like side, like gin bubble gum, and my initial fear is that this spirit will read as overly sweet. Beneath the fruitiness, meanwhile, we’re getting sweet florals in full bloom, and hints of juniper.
On the palate, despite the very prominent and assertive fruit notes carrying over, they’re really not combined with a high level of residual sweetness. The peach and passion fruit leap out again, combined with a more austere floral quality, but they then transition into a somewhat bitter and resinous juniper backbone. The press release and label both cite “sweet herbs,” but these are difficult to place without knowing more about the specific botanicals involved. Suffice to say, it’s the fruitiness that really takes center stage and demands most of your attention, but thankfully it doesn’t come with syrupy sweetness attached. In fact, it goes to dryness pretty quickly.
This is certainly an unusual profile, and it’s one odd enough that I felt like I had to also make a G&T before I could decide on an overall impression. I’m ultimately glad that I did, because this is where the gin starts to shine–here it’s decidedly softer, and has its more bombastic tendencies smoothed away. At the same time, plenty of the bright stone fruit character carries through the tonic and a squeeze of lime juice. In fact, this may still be too fruity or uncanny for some drinkers, but to me, consuming this with tonic more immediately illustrates its charms. All in all, it’s one of the most distinct and original installments in the Cabinet of Curiosities series to date. So make no mistake: This gin is in no way traditional.
Distillery: Hendrick’s Gin
City: Girvan, Scotland
Style: Modern gin
ABV: 43.4% (86.8 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $40