17/09/2021
OK, so it’s not 100% Grenache, but we could not think of a better wine to offer on this occasion than Jean-Paul Versino’s 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – a brilliant wine from a truly great vintage in the Southern Rhône. And anyway, it’s certainly the bulk of the blend, there are only small dollops of the likes of Mourvèdre.
It was the 2004 that we first shipped from Jean-Paul: as fans of red burgundy, we loved the restraint that he brought to his wine. Châteauneuf has the potential to be a bit of beast, big, heavy, and somewhat unwieldy (is that why it’s become a tad unfashionable?), but his bottle was none of those things. We have been regulars, and this 2019 is as good as anything we have tasted from the estate. Why so good? Well, although the summer was extremely hot, the drought was occasionally alleviated by welcome bouts of rain. Furthermore, the nights were cool, enabling the grapes to retain freshness.
So, the fabulous concentration of brambly, berry, fruit never comes across as overpowering, the structure holds together serenely, poised to perfection. And once we’d tasted, mused, discussed, and accepted our allocation (easy decision), the remaining wine was quickly polished off, it was just too good to leave. That, of course, is an excellent sign, as great vintages often drink well from their youth (2016 Barolo, 2015 Brunello, 2015 red burgundy, and 2010 Bordeaux all spring to mind).