Kogod Wine Merchant

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Kogod Wine Merchant

Encinitas-based retail wine shop focusing on small-production, traditionally crafted wines from the classic vine-growing regions of the world.
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10/07/2024

Nestled in the heart of Napa Valley, Massican Winery stands as a beacon of Italian-inspired winemaking excellence. Founded by Dan Petroski, a visionary winemaker with a passion for blending Old World tradition with New World innovation, Massican Winery crafts wines that are a true reflection of the terroir and the artistry of its creator.

At Massican, the philosophy is simple yet profound: to produce both sophisticated and approachable wines, showcasing each varietal's unique character. From the fresh, minerally flagship Annia (Tocai & Ribolla Gialla) to the aromatic and lively Gemina (Greco & Falanghina), Massican embodies the spirit of Italian whites reimagined in California's fertile soils.

Every bottle from Massican Winery tells a story of meticulous vineyard management and precise winemaking techniques. Grapes are sourced from premier vineyards across Napa Valley, where the cool maritime influences and sun-drenched slopes create optimal conditions for grape ripening and flavor development. If you are not lazing away your summer on a terrace off the coast of Italy somewhere, a crisp glass of Massican wine is the next best thing.

08/07/2024

Alsatian Sensation: André Ostertag Dry Riesling

Domaine Ostertag has long gone against the grain of Alsatian expectations, crafting dry, disciplined wines that still summon the region's perpetual sunshine. Fronholz and Grand Cru Muenchberg Rieslings especially imbue the transparency and purity of a mountain lake. These wines are a moment of clarity for Alsace, and all lovers of ethereal yet layered Riesling.

Alsace is in the cool northeast pocket of France, and its protection from the Vosges Mountains means it receives the least rainfall of any region. This abundant sunshine has long given Alsatian wines a rounded and golden orchard fruit quality, often with a dollop of residual sugar. However, several elements separate Andre Ostertag from the norm––topping the list is his interest in producing only dry expressions of Riesling.

Ostertag studied viticulture in Burgundy and returned home in 1998 to employ organic and biodynamic principles in the vineyard. He wanted to keep energy and verve in his dry wines and chose to age them in stainless steel––think Chablis texture meets dry Mosel Riesling filigree.

Today, Alsace is famous for having the highest percentage of organic and biodynamic producers in France. While the quality at harvest couldn't be higher, I still find few producers that execute with the same sense of harmony that Ostertag is adored for.

06/07/2024

World's Best Super Tuscan: 2021 Sassicaia
There's no official hierarchy in the "Super Tuscan" arena, but Sassicaia is the greatest for lovers of classic wines that have never bent to trends. For such a celebrated category, it's pretty remarkable that for over fifty years, Tenuta San Guido's top expression of the Bolgheri coast has reigned supreme.

In short, a Super Tuscan incorporates some international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah. While some Super Tuscans feature the addition of the native Sangiovese, many do not. West of both Chianti and Montalcino, the coastal zone of Bolgheri is well suited to these darker and bolder international grapes of Bordeaux and Napa fame.

Released in 1968, San Guido's Sassicaia differs from many neighbors in its exclusion of Merlot, instead opting for only Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Kicking Merlot out of the party meant forgoing the round, soft, milk-chocolatey, and warm black cherry liquor flavors that make many Super Tuscans lose a sense of place and intrigue.

San Guido harvests earlier than most of their neighbors, producing a wine with more site reflection, never marred by overripeness. The gravel soils of Sassicaia mirror those found in the home to the greatest Bordeaux chateaux of Pauillac–– Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild and Latour. When setting up a blind tasting of Napa and Bordeaux elites, Sassicaia is the one clear Italian pick to keep things honest.

In closing, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention Tuscany's 2021 vintage. It's clearly one of the most successful of the young century. We don't list critic's scores, and for good reason, but this rendition of Sassicaia is as good as it gets from the most respected Super Tuscan of them all.

03/07/2024

Starturn Piemonte: Cascina Penna-Currado. They propelled one of the most iconic wineries in Italy to new heights, and now Elena Penna and Luca Currado of Vietti fame are turning the page in Piemonte. I was lucky to sit down with both last month for lunch and taste the first release from their personal new project, Cascina Penna-Currado.

If Vietti produced wines of intensity and panache, this considerably boutique endeavor shows the more classic roots that reflect their personal preferences––wines of transparency, grace, and site-specificity. Moving from Castiglione, the family's new home is Serralunga, where a 1554-founded property has been revitalized. While the first Barolo release won't come until 2027, the wines today from the 2022 vintage are all I needed to know about the direction things are headed.

The critical takeaway is that the focus will be working with cooler sites––vineyards with orientations and elevations that mitigate heat and drought. The truth is that the vineyards that once produced elegant Barolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera are now struggling with the forces of nature. Preserving acidity and allowing for a long growing season with mature phenolic ripeness is now the modus operandi.

Bricco Lago is the vineyard that introduces us to the first Dolcetto and Nebbiolo from the family. Located in a cool microclimate within Monforte, vines slope down towards the only natural lake in the Langhe. This doubles down on the moderate influences that bring freshness to both varieties. While Vietti's examples of these two showed palate-coating concentration, this inaugural set of wines takes the foot off the gas pedal. Both exhibit floral aromatics, precise contours, and soil-inflected personalities, giving a window onto the clay and limestone of this untapped, cooler zone.

While we wait anxiously (along with the rest of the wine world) for Elena and Luca's Barolo releases, the trio of wines today are spectacular.

01/07/2024

Marvelous in Micro: Champagne Antoine Bouvet

Since visiting Champagne in 2019 with the young Antoine Bouvet, we've been able to offer extremely small quantities. A larger mailing list offer like this was simply not possible since requests for orders always outweighed stock. With the release of the terrific 2020 Champagne vintage, I'm happy to offer Antoine's flagship Monts de la Valée Blanc de Noirs.

Bouvet's champagnes have a rare balance between layered textures of Pinot Noir red berry fruit, brioche flavors, and underlying salinity holding the entire picture in a regal frame. The ethos of these rich yet mineral-driving champagnes comes from, as labels infer, tradition and invention. Bouvet has turned to the labor-intensive and humble work of his grandfather and grandmother, rising the quality of his small domaine thanks to, as you guessed it, moving into organic and biodynamic farming, even relying on his pet ducks for pest control.

Monts de la Valée is the flagship bottling of the domaine. Comprised of 100% Pinot Noir sourced from vines in Avenay Val D’Or and Mareuil Sur Ay. Vinification and aging takes place both in barrel and tank. Dosage is 3 grams/liter.

28/06/2024

Barbaresco Game-Changer: Finding satin-textured, über-young Nebbiolo that calls to mind Foillard's Morgon Cuvée Corcelette more so than a customarily tannic Barbaresco is something I never considered possible. Hunting down this rare trait wasn't on my Nebbiolo radar, but when an iconic Burgundy producer tipped me off to this Barbaresco name, I made sure to taste immediately. The Langhe Nebbiolo from Paolo Veglio's Cascina Roccalini is the best young example from Barbaresco I've ever tasted.

Roccalini flipped preconceived notions of the region and its capabilities upside down. The most approachable wine from Paolo is this younger-vine bottling from his organic and biodynamic estate. There's a plush immediacy to the fruit profile that's easy to drink, yet with a complexity, translucent color, and a mid-palate grip that's true to Piedmont's Nebbiolo.

The surprisingly fresh and seamless Nebbiolo from Roccalini is undoubtedly derived from Paolo Veglio's natural approach. Living above the cellar and vines, Paolo knew early on that organic farming was necessary for producing the best possible wine and a healthy family lifestyle.

Paolo's story begins in the cellars of Bruno Giacosa, where his father, an architect, took him as a young boy. Years later, in 1991, Paolo returned to Bruno Giacosa and asked the winemaker, Dante Scaglione, if he'd be interested in purchasing grapes from Roccalini. Dante immediately said yes. Just as Dante knew, Roccalini is a special vineyard, and it took Paolo a decade of trials before he finally bottled his own label.

27/06/2024

Bona Fide Naturalist: Werlitsch vom Opok

Wineries like Werlitsch in Austria's Styria region perpetuate the dreamy biodynamic farm vibes we've seen springing up in Eastern Europe. Sure, the scenes are breathtaking and make for a good selling point, but what winemaker Ewald Tscheppe produces from his opok-rich soils restores our faith in the far reaches of natural wine. Werlitsch is on the shortlist of natural producers you need to know.

"Ex Vero" is a three-part series showcasing a blend of Morillon (aka Chardonnay) and Sauvignon Blanc on varying soil compositions as you ascend Werlitsch's steep hillside vineyard. If we had to draw a comparison, they're reminiscent of Jura or white Burgundy but gone rogue, with visceral energy and the slightest noble reduction.

The vines grow on limestone and clay soil rich in minerals and marine fossils, which locals call "opok." Truly terroir-driven, these wines stand apart from anything you'll come across in Austria or elsewhere. Another favorite is the 100% Sauvignon Blanc "Vom Opok" which brings a new face to the variety, still with the snappy and crisp grapefruit, lemon, and guava traits but adding layers of mystical flavors that are wholly unique.

Ewald's journey into biodynamics began in the early 1980s while studying wine. A true disciple of the naturalist movement, he firmly believes in the supremacy of nature. This belief is reflected in his winemaking practices—gravity-flow, natural yeast, and no sulfur. His dedication to applying biodynamics to his family's estate, which is also home to fruit trees, wild herbs, vegetables, and forests, is truly inspiring.

26/06/2024

Freshness Personified: Summer of Grüner Veltliner

Summertime's explosively flavorful produce has me turning toward Gruner Veltliner. While Riesling may garner the most prized slopes of Austria, the fact is that Gruner is very well situated when it's not getting those prime sun rays and added heat. The best producers' examples below are full of energy and bright acids to complement the tell-tale fresh pear, apple skin, and white pepper notes. Over the last decade, in the face of increasing temperatures, I have become more entranced by the lower sugar Federspiel options versus the bolder and riper harvested Smaragds.

It may be too simple to say the herbal tones of Gruner mesh with snap peas and basil, but there is a symbiosis that clicks. Even though we are blessed with great veggies in southern California year-round, now is when these flavors strut. Here are the Gruner Veltliners that impress us the most. And, for those keen on dramatics, the 1999 Nigl and 1997 Knoll are in top form today.

26/06/2024

Alexandre Chartogne intends to prove to the world that his tiny village of Merfy, just north of Reims, still deserves the praise once heaped upon it as far back as 853 AD. Yes, Merfy was once among the celebrated villages of Champagne. Although the wines were not sparkling back then, the terroir was a beacon for greatness.

Cuvée Saint Anne is the flagship non-vintage bottling of the estate and one of the first champagne I reach for. It's comprised of all three main varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. Saint Anne has long stood as one of the great non-vintage champagnes, but over the last 18 years the quality continued to rise. It's still an insider's grower-champagne in every sense.

I constantly hammer farming over winemaking, but Chartogne-Taillet is the perfect example. Alexandre has created a flourishing life of activity in the vines that yield pristine raw materials through organic and biodynamic farming. In Merfy, soil changes rapidly from one parcel to the next (Imagine if the Côte de Nuits was compacted into the village of Chambolle). Chartogne-Taillet reminds us that Champagne's ability to express terroir is just as profound as Burgundy.

Alexandre worked under Jacques Selosse, the hero of the grower-champagne movement. Since taking over his family's parcels in 2006, Alexandre has been uncovering the story below the vines. When summer is in full swing, quality grower-champagne always tops my wishlist, and in the non-vintage category, Sainte Anne is a jewel.

24/06/2024

In college, a Médoc was my epiphany red wine moment. In just one sniff, my growing fascination with wine shifted from California to France. Regrettably, those thrilling experiences via Bordeaux don't really come around anymore. The point-chasing, over-extracted, over-oaked, ripe-beyond-recognition style set in motion in the mid-80s has changed the region for the worse, and the pendulum has to swing back. Yet, terroir-driven producers do still exist.

Situated between Pomerol and Saint Emilion on the second-highest point along the Gironde estuary, Chateau Le Puy is a Bordeaux estate rooted in sensibilities more commonly found in Burgundy. The wines' finesse, transparency of place, and approachability are worlds apart from the stylistic norm in this revered region.

These vines have been farmed free of chemicals since 1610, and today, full biodynamic practices are employed, with work done by horse. The estate's plantings include 85% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and small percentages of Malbec and Carménère on an amalgamation of red clay, silex, and limestone soils.

In addition to organic and biodynamic farming, their fermentation and élevage methods are also considered uncommon. Infusion and semi-carbonic methods limit the extraction of tannins, providing soft texture and bright, open-knit fruit out of the gate. Aging in large foudre preserves all of that backbone of mineral tension, bringing a freshness missing from the surrounding chateaux.

23/06/2024

Guillaume Gilles in Cornas continues to raise the bar each vintage, and his wines are finally in the limelight. This has led to painfully small quantities today––just six bottles of each Cornas cuvée.

A visit with in July 2018 was a great opportunity to learn more about the young vigneron who highlights Northern Rhone’s new generation. Gilles trained under Jean-Louis Chave and the now-retired Cornas legend Robert Michel.

Gilles leases 2.5 hectares of Michel’s famed Chaillot vineyard. His traditional approach means zero de-stemming, aging in large neutral barrels, and no fining or filtering. If Michel’s wines were known for their uncommon transparency and light-handed touch, Gilles is darker, ferocious, and concentrated. Still, they have that undeniable sense of pure granite and 100% whole cluster. ⁠⁠⁠

19/06/2024

From release through decades in bottle, no Cru Beaujolais producer consistently thrills like Jean Foillard. Young producers, like Yann Bertrand, call him a mentor, and other contemporaries call him the Morgon Master. Regardless of where your preferences lie within the unparalleled values found in Beaujolais, Foillard is the benchmark.

Yes, Foillard's wines are breathtaking with serious age, but the true gift of Gamay is its unrivaled approachability upon release. These cuvées will improve and transform with time, but for those who don't care to wait so long, the silky, harmonious, and pure-fruited elements from day one are how Foillard earned his fame.

Following the cool and mid-weight 2021s, the 2022s return to the more typical fleshy, juicy, and unbridled forward fruit traits that we've come to love. Nobody in the entire region surpasses Foillard's quality––these cuvées continue to be the benchmark. The wines will be ready to ship on Tuesday.

13/06/2024

Today, I wanted to offer what I believe is the best value in all of white Burgundy, Florence Cholet's 2019 Bourgogne Côte d'Or. This is one of the great examples of the secrets behind the label in Burgundy. All the vines for this cuvée are from three lieux dits, or single vineyards, from the two best villages for Chardonnay on earth. Puligny-Montrachet's Les Parties & Les Équinces, and Meursault's Sous la Velle. With wines from Puligny and Meursault stretching beyond $100 easily, Florence's single vineyard blend of the two is just $43, and we're going down to $38 for any orders of 6+.

The careful study and delineation of Burgundy's vineyards over centuries mean there are secret cuvées to discover if you look closely enough. When you learn about this vineyard's real estate, Cholet's Les Enseignères in Puligny Montrachet is precisely one of those magical wines.

Les Enseignères is located at the foot of Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet. As one can imagine, this site imbues the power and richness that Bâtard is famous for while still showcasing loads of saline-drenched minerality and verve. A Puligny Montrachet that delivers the regal frame and layered depth that's made it the most prized village for Chardonnay on the planet.

The winemaking at this four-generation domaine is traditional, focusing first on the vineyards. Neutral and second-year barrels are used for aging to minimize new oak influence.

I was fortunate to work alongside the Cholet family at various points during the 2012 growing season before my May stage began at Domaine Dujac. It was at this domaine that I was introduced to Bernard Boisson. Like Boisson, these wines are produced in small quantities. We're fortunate to offer nine wines from this ultimate-insider domaine; these are the only bottles offered in the U.S.

12/06/2024

From Côte de Blancs to Montagne de Reims, there's no name in Champagne with the diversity of genius that I covet more than Bérêche. The NV Reserve is arguably the best in its category. And, the single village wines that span so many terroirs are magical in every sense. The only issue is quantities.

Today, I'm happy to offer the new release from Bérêche & Fils.

Tasting the Bérêche brothers' entire range on a visit in 2018 was a masterclass. Raphaël had a joyful demeanor and exuded enthusiasm at every turn in the cave. He and Vincent, who focuses on the vineyard, take an exacting approach to every detail. These champagnes always illustrate how profound a non-vintage bottling can be, and the latest release proves no different.

The non-vintage Brut Resérve is equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 1er Cru village Ludes in Montagne de Reims bring a nervosity. The broader and richer tones come from Pinot Meunier and additional Chardonnay from Mareuil le Port in Vallée de la Marne. 35% of the Brut Réserve comes from a perpetual blend of reserve wine, bringing a sense of grandeur that meshes with the single vintage's more taut structure.

Ten full-time workers farm Bérêche's nine hectares, as Raphael believes quality is dictated by the number of minutes each vine is cared for through the growing season. Bérêche also stands out for the vast array of terroir at their disposal, starting at their home estate, where the chalky soils of 1er Cru Ludes are ideal for Chardonnay, to the Valée de la Marne's heavier clay soils, where Pinot Noir and Meunier excel.

11/06/2024

Domaine Tempier defies all rules of the rosé category. In 1941, the domaine just about single-handedly petitioned the Bandol appellation into existence. Tempier's rosé is simply the world's best in the convergence of sought-after and age-worthy. While new releases delight during their first summer months, this pink will show well a decade later––if you're lucky to have some stashed away in your cellar.

Today, I'm happy to offer the release of the 2023 Bandol Rosé. Wines are ready to ship on Thursday.

Magnums and Jeroboams will be ready later this summer.

The rosé blend is 55% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, and 20% Cinsault, planted on limestone and clay just above the Mediterranean coast. Much of the secret of this highly coveted pink is in its ability to transform over time, continuing to hold onto that critical freshness. Visiting the domaine in July 2016 again proved these back vintage rosés and reds deserve their place atop France's hierarchy of cherished estates.

10/06/2024

If global warming temperatures have benefited one category, I might choose Mosel Pinot Noir. The river valley is most associated with lighting-in-bottle Rieslings, often relying on residual sugar to balance high acidity. In the last decade, we've seen examples of reds from these steep slopes (photo below) that have grabbed our attention. For me, none more so than Ulli Stein's "Red Light" Pinot Noir.

The tiny production has meant that we haven't been able to offer this wine for three years. The 2022 marks the return of our favorite German Pinot Noir at $39.

Red Light comprises old vine Pinot Noir planted on ruthlessly steep slate slopes. Tart red fruits, faint spices, and herb notes combine with the ethereal lightness of the Mosel to deliver one of the most salivating and drinkable Pinot Noirs on earth. Though I'm sad for missing out on this ideal summer red for the past few years, I'm thrilled it's made a comeback at the perfect time.

In addition to the return of Red Light, we have a new Stein for us: the 2020 Waechter Pinot Noir. This comprises the best fruit from Ulli's oldest vines and was aged in used barrels from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. There is more texture and density here, still with the tell-tale weightless persona that is all things Mosel.

Described as "true bohemians," Ulli Stein and his wife live atop a mountain overlooking the Mosel and farm un-grafted vines on once abandoned terraces deemed too difficult to farm.

The Stein "inn" doesn't have rooms to book, yet it's always filled with friends, musicians, artists, and writers to converse with and fuel Ulli's eccentric mind. As you can imagine, his attention to detail and natural approach to viticulture and winemaking are the foundation for his dynamic and intricate wines.

07/06/2024

A year living in Burgundy was an experience unlike any other. Studying French, meeting new friends, and learning all about the fabled domaines and vineyards from the ground up was a dream for me. Without a doubt, the highlight was the opportunity to stage at Domaine Dujac, starting in the summer in the vineyards and cellar, and then the cuverie through harvest. As much as I learned working, I think the daily lunches and dinners with the Seysses family were even more educational. And it was getting to know the most generous family in Burgundy that was the ultimate reward of my 2012 abroad.

06/06/2024

“I make my wine like Bartolo Mascarello!” That's what Massimiliano Calabretta told his U.S. importer when they first visited his estate in Sicily. The family's formula is simple: To work with old-vine and own-rooted parcels preserved as long as possible through organic farming. Their historic practices have stood the test of time as the world rapidly changed. The wines at Calebretta are entrenched in tradition, just as Bartolo Mascarello would have approved.

Nerello Cappuccio is often considered a blending grape (mainly because of its viticulture difficulty and susceptibility to disease rather than any varietal shortcoming). Calabretta saw his old, ungrafted vines offered a very different expression of the variety, with an aromatic lift that stood apart from his counterparts: Dark red fruits, smoke, lavender, violets, and a saline-infused finish that has made reaching for this wine habitual.

Nerello Mascalese is the primary red variety on Mt. Etna. The vines for Calabretta's old-vine cuvée, Vigne Vecchie, start at 60 years old and go well over 100 years, many of which are un-grafted. Aging takes place in 50-70 hectoliter Slavonian casks for up to 42 months. This protocol parallels traditional Barolo producers, but the similarities go beyond aging formats.

Finally, the Carricante is my favorite of Sicily. It has a more linear drive and crips corners that endow an energy and saline finish that stands out from other examples. While there is excellent Carricante from Salvo Foti below with its more broad and textural mineral style, Calabretta's value and acid-driven personality won me over when I visited in 2017. The perfect fresh seafood partner!

05/06/2024

I didn't need any validation of the quality of Domaine Duroché's wines, but a July tasting with Pierre in Gevrey Chambertin further drove home the point of how transcending his wines are.

They are models for the fine tannins that Gevrey is capable of, with the inherent structure and dark earth traits synonymous with the village. Duroché's wines have a hallmark featherweight texture and lacy minerality unique in this famous northern village known for brawn. This harmony between the reflection of place and a lifted, graceful sensibility stands out first when you taste.

In 2021, Pierre produced a one-time special cuvée of his Gevrey Chambertin. It blends Premier Cru Champeaux and lieu-dits Le Clos, Champ, and En Vosne. It has always been a benchmark Village bottling that calls to mind the iconic and understated examples from Mugnier and D'Angerville.

Whether you're a seasoned Burgundy collector or just interested in finding the region's most (relatively) under-the-radar superstars, Pierre Duroché's wines are not to be missed.

05/06/2024

Discussions have arisen with customers who love red Burgundy but prefer bottles on the younger side. While the tertiary notes that develop with age may speak to you or not, it's indisputable that some producers are known for the most glacial of aging and their wine's ability to hold onto primary fruit. Ghislaine Barthod of Chambolle Musigny is at the top of that list.

Chambolle has a high proportion of active limestone that separates it from just about every other village in the Côte d'Or, save for Volnay, resulting in wines with piano string tension, paler color, and gorgeous rose petal aromas.

I vividly remember Becky Wasserman's 10-Year-On retrospective of the 2002 vintage held at her home in Burgundy in 2012. Elite domaine's top Premier and Grand Cru bottlings filled tables for the walk-around tasting. When all was said and done, Ghislaine Barthod's wines held a level of freshness and structure in their own world.

Due to the tiny yields in 2021, Barthod and importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant have chosen to include the 2020 vintage with this new release. Securing a decent quantity of Barthod is always tricky, and I'm thrilled to have a nice allocation of these Chambolle gems.

In closing, I highly recommend Les Bons Batons Bourgogne Rouge. It sits at Chambolle's border and captures the mineral-driven and precise personality of Barthod's wines. I'd choose it over many Village bottlings at twice the price. I'm taking home a few bottles myself this week. Link in bio to purchase.

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