Kogod Wine Merchant (2025)

28/03/2025

Big Bottle Energy: The Best in Mags & Jeros

Large format bottles offer more than just the allure of extra wine. They provide enhanced freshness, as the slower aging process preserves their vibrant character, resulting in a more lively and youthful wine. And when your group exceeds five, everyone will appreciate having more than just a single glass to enjoy.

These are the large formats we know will fit any occasion, from the incredible value of Muscadet with oysters, to bone-in ribeyes with aged Bordeaux––the 1988 Chateau Lafite Rothschild pictured above inspired today's offer. We have several vintages of Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet and Chardonnay, as well as Robert Mondavi's Estate Cabernet.

21/03/2025

Delectable Dijon: Domaine de la Cras' Monopole

In the hills above Dijon, you can find one of Burgundy's greatest inception stories. It is a fresh departure from a domaine's normal evolution, but the wines in bottle are the most thrilling element from Marc Soyard. In a short time, Domaine de la Cras has gone from obscure to having a cult following.

A little over a decade ago, the city of Dijon purchased a vineyard just outside its limits, and they essentially held a casting call to find a winemaker for the property. The criteria were: The winemaker must be young, have no family vineyard holdings, farm organically, and open the domaine for educational tours. Rent for the land would be paid to the city in 2,000 bottles.

Marc Soyard, originally from nearby Jura, was chosen. Soyard does not come from a family of vignerons but previously worked for Vosne-Romanée's esteemed Domaine Bizot, known for its rigorous vineyard work, minuscule sulfur regimen, and whole-cluster fermentation.

Soyard's Pinot Noirs pulled me in for their super crunchy and unadulterated bright, red berry fruit. The aromas are intoxicating even before tasting, and whole-cluster fermentation gives these wines a lifted spice and floral character that just floored me. His Chardonnay's offer a totally unique take on white Burgundy, coming from this long-overlooked terroir––seamless and classic.

20/03/2025

The Gold Standard: Huet Vouvray Chenin Blanc

If there were one gold standard for Chenin Blanc, it would be Vouvray's Domaine Huet. Victor Huët relocated here from Paris and purchased the first of their three famous vineyards, Le Haut-Lieu, in 1928. Victor's son Gaston took over in 1937, and after spending five years in a German POW camp, he returned home and purchased the next duo of vineyards, Le Mont and Clos du Bourg.

Huet's trio is revered for each wine's expressive site-specificity and transformative prowess. The young Vouvray Sec (dry) and Demi-Sec (off-dry) wines offer white peach, pineapple, and chalky minerality notes upon release. With age, notes of white flowers and honeycomb emerge and fall into place seamlessly in a way that's simply vintage Huet.

Le Haut Lieu's deep limestone and clay make this the richest and most approachable in the lineup. Le Mont is the most mineral-driven and racy of the trio, with less clay soil. Clos du Bourg has the most shallow and rockiest soils, and its signature is the "middle ground" wine, combining the mineral component of Le Mont with the more sensual, flashy texture of Le Haut-Lieu.

Pétillant is the domaine's sparkling wine, sourced from all three vineyards. Among sparkling wines made outside of Champagne, this is the Loire's greatest and one of the world's best, especially considering the quality-price-ratio.

19/03/2025

Zero Fluff, All Focus: Jouan Morey 1er Cru Clos Sorbé

I'm often asked which Burgundy domaines should be on the radar for their classic character and no frills personality. The name atop that list, embodying both, is Philippe & Henri Jouan of Morey-Saint-Denis. Their greatest wine from their home village is the Premier Cru Clos Sorbé. The late, great Jacky Truchot once made this vineyard legendary, with bottles now fetching upwards of $2,000. When he retired (sort of) in 2005, he sold all his vineyards—except for Clos Sorbé, as he continued producing a tiny amount from a backyard site he cherished.

Morey is often defined by what it isn't—neither Gevrey-Chambertin to the north nor Chambolle-Musigny to the south. Its wines trade Chambolle’s red cherry for darker berries, layered with forest floor and brown and rust-tinged earthy notes. And, unlike Gevrey’s muscular structure, Morey retains a grace and lift that always brings me back to a more Chambolle ethos of refinement.

Clos Sorbé centers around the same dark cherry fruit profile, but adding notes of orange rind, cocoa, and smoked game. All wrapped up with great acidity, fine-grained tannin, and unmistakable Premier Cru length and drive. While very structured in its extreme youth, with a few years in bottle, like today's 2020, these expressions are in full blossom.

19/03/2025

Dry Riesling: The Rundown

Today, we're shining a light on a wine that needs very little introduction here, but the spotlight must persist! Dry Riesling is a favorite for its featherweight palate presence, and dynamic transformative capabilities. Did I mention they are also unbelievably delicious whether in peak summer or to pair along hearty dishes in the depths of winter? Click the link in bio to shop our favorites

17/03/2025

2021 First Look: Ferrando Canaveses Nebbiolo "Praj"

For a decade here, I've sung the praises of Ferrando's Carema, and today, we turn to its more approachable, brand-spanking-new sibling, the Canavese Nebbiolo "Praj."

There’s no better value for Italian alpine Nebbiolo. This single vineyard located just outside Carema delivers the same finesse and ethereal quality that makes Ferrando’s White and Black labels so revered but with softer tannins and a more immediate, fruit-forward charm.

The debut release hails from the outstanding 2021 Piedmont vintage. While the highly anticipated Barolos, Barbarescos, and Alto Piemonte wines will trickle in over the next two years, this is the $35 bottle you need to experience now to understand what all the excitement is about. The vintage is defined by its elegance and fruit intensity, while still offering spectacular aging potential.

14/03/2025

New Dawn: Clos des Plantes Chenin Blanc

Loire Chenin Blanc produced in the most natural of methods is something I'm always excited to taste. The bar for excellence is very high, given only the most skilled viticulture can turn out these complex and high-wire achievements.

Lejeune worked alongside legendary Chenin Blanc whisperer Mark Angeli at Ferme de la Sansonniere in Anjou. Here, Mark taught the skills necessary to produce pristine Chenin Blanc with minimal intervention.

Lejeune's two cuvées offer a value that cannot be overstated. Chenin Blanc from this domaine explodes on the palate with a soft texture and an open-knit style of fruit met with a mineral grip. The tingling finish saturates the palate with salinity and holds on for dear life. These are two Chenins with no shortage of personality––Rich and saline, they cover all the bases.

You'll find ripe orchard fruits and honeysuckle cut with lemon citrus notes that switch this broad attack of ripeness into a mineral delivery system masterpiece. The natural element is abundantly clear with its cardamom spices fully enveloped under a strict spine of chalk and schist-derived minerality.

With this importer's portfolio covering names like Roumier, Roulot, and D'Angerville, it's exciting to see the juxtaposition of more natural-leaning producers coming to the forefront offering the same fastidious methods of work with a more hands-off approach in the cellar. If there's one newer name to familiarize yourself with it would certainly be Olivier Lejeune's Clos des Plantes.

12/03/2025

Curtain Up: 2021 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte

2021 has proven to be one of the most exciting young vintages in Tuscany this century. And the zone that turned out the most impressive wines of all is undoubtedly here in Chianti Classico. It’s a vintage of power and intensity, yet it beautifully balances bright acidity, giving wines of remarkable precision and purity.

Sergio Manetti originally planted just two hectares at this vacation property in 1967. With the unexpected glowing reception of his first vintage (1971), he began to focus exclusively on winemaking. Manetti believed in the greatness of 100% Sangiovese from this hillside, and in 1981, due to the laws of Chianti Classico requiring the addition of Trebbiano in the blend, he chose to leave the consortium.

This was a radical move at the time, and it is hard to believe now, as so many of the great wines of Chianti Classico are produced with 100% Sangiovese. (Even though the law was changed in 1995 to allow 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico, many producers opt to maintain their "lower" IGT status). The estate gained a loyal following at home and abroad, with Sergio's son Martino taking an active role with his father in 1989. In 2000, Martino took complete control upon his father's passing.

The 18-hectare estate rests high at 425 meters in Radda, one of the coolest zones in Chianti Classico. The soil is heavily dominated by limestone, and coupled with the site's climate, Montevertine has a sense of transparency and grace that stands out immediately. Le Pergole Torte is sourced from the estate's oldest vines and highest-elevation plantings. Aging in French barrique with a maximum of 15% new wood. The deft use of barrique here is so impressive, adding concentration and texture while still harnessing the pure, lithe qualities inherent in the site. Link in bio to purchase.

11/03/2025

Agrapart "Terroirs": Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brilliance

When the best non-vintage Blanc de Blancs conversation arises, which is often, my answer for the sub-$100 category always starts with Agrapart "Terroirs" and Pierre Péters Cuvée Réserve. It's impossible to exclude other great names, but these two personify the best attributes of the most chalky realm of Champagne, the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs.

Pascal Agrapart farms 10 hectares covering 60 different parcels, all located in only Grand Cru villages. Wines here commonly undergo full malolactic fermentation, and aging takes place in both older oak barrels and stainless steel. The champagnes are crystalline and precise, yet infused with Grand Cru radiance, delivering deeply saturated fruit and awesome depth.

Terroirs comprises Chardonnay sourced from Grand Cru villages, Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Oiry. A blend of two consecutive vintages, with the older vintage aged exclusively in neutral oak barrels. Link in bio to purchase.

10/03/2025

Dagueneau's Sauvignon Blanc cuvées from Loire's Pouilly-Fumé might transcend their appellation more than any domaine in France. Labeling them as merely Sauvignon Blanc or Pouilly-Fumé is like calling Beethoven a classical composer, Stanley Kubrick a film director, or Leonardo da Vinci a painter. It's not just about being the best in their fields––they redefined the very boundaries of what their crafts could achieve.

Dagueneau's white wines are often poured at dinners alongside Burgundy's greats, and there's no missed beat. Yes, they differ in leaning towards tropical citrus, but the magic is in pushing primary fruit flavors behind a wall of terroir and savory notes that take precedence. Add their ability to transform and improve with bottle age, and it's easy to see why no other Pouily Fumé plays in this same field.

Silex is the wine I think of first when the name Daugueneau arises. The name refers to the rock that's abundantly found in this vineyard, also commonly known as flint. Silex is about structure over fruit, and the firm, straight line of minerality and acidity forms the backbone and is known for its supreme age-ability.

07/03/2025

California Game-Changer: Inconnu

There are U.S. trailblazers and game-changers, but you rarely find both under one roof. Laura Brennan Bissell's appropriately named label Inconnu, meaning "unknown," is the recent discovery that had me feeling, well, seen.

I generally drink Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux, Santa Cruz Mountains, Napa, and Sonoma. But I only pull those corks when the menu calls for steak or lamb. Simply put, you won't find me watching a David Lynch flick with a glass of Cab—I don't have the interest to sip for two hours without food. And that is why Inconnu is as invigorating a game-changer as I've tasted from California in a long time.

Bissell's wines have modest alcohol levels (well below what that even means in the regions above), and they have such beautiful balance and finesse that they disappear fast but offer long-lasting joy. They marry the refreshing qualities of a great Cru Beaujolais with the flavor profiles of ripe-not-overripe Cabernet Sauvignon, where black cherry and currant can be found, with notes of eucalyptus and mint that make things a lot more exciting.

Another thing that makes clear these wines were destined to be KWM mainstays is their origin, coming from the same importer as Clos Rougeard, Roagna, and Lafon. At the portfolio tasting, I was taken by how each red, regardless of their modest pricing, stood toe-to-toe with one another. I went back multiple times and was still hard-pressed to pick a favorite––they all had the kind of grace and intensity that separates the good from the great.

Do not miss these California reds that check all the boxes for Old World wine lovers and "New California" enthusiasts.

05/03/2025

Vosne Romanée Sleeper: Domaine Forey

Domaine Forey flies under the radar a bit, but offers excellent value in the village-level designation. A beacon for tradition, Forey stands apart from the increasingly fruit-forward and juicy styles of modern red Burgundy—this is old-school winemaking at its finest.

Uniquely, Forey produces multiple Vosne-Romanée Village cuvées. Our pick, the standard Vosne Romanée, is a blend of 14 parcels spread across just one hectare in the northern part of the village, bordering Vougeot. Vines date back to 1942, bringing deep complexity to the wine. Aged entirely in neutral barrels and demi-muids, this cuvée is all about purity and site expression.

The result is a Vosne Romanée that rises to the expectations of its revered appellation. Dark berry fruits, exotic spices, and damp earth intertwine seamlessly. The 2021 is already offering immense pleasure right now, yet it has the structure and stuffing to evolve gracefully over the next decade.

01/03/2025

Bordeaux Boundary Breaker: 2021 Chateau Le Puy

In college, a Left Bank Bordeaux was my epiphany red wine moment. My growing fascination with wine shifted from California to France in just one sniff. Regrettably, those thrilling experiences via Bordeaux don't come around anymore. The point-chasing, over-extracted, over-oaked, ripe-beyond-recognition style set in motion in the mid-80s has changed the region, and the pendulum has yet to swing back. However, terroir-driven producers do still exist.

Situated between Pomerol and Saint Emilion on the second-highest point along the Gironde estuary, Chateau Le Puy is a Bordeaux estate rooted in sensibilities more commonly found in Burgundy. The wines here are defined by their finesse and pure expression of place—a striking departure from the current style of this revered region

These vines have been farmed free of chemicals since 1610, and today, full biodynamic practices are employed, with work done by horse. The estate's plantings include 85% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and small percentages of Malbec and Carménère on an amalgamation of red clay, silex, and limestone soils.

In addition to organic and biodynamic farming, their fermentation and élevage methods are also considered uncommon. Infusion and semi-carbonic methods limit the extraction of tannins, providing soft texture and bright, open-knit fruit out of the gate. Aging in large foudre preserves all of that backbone of mineral tension, bringing a freshness missing from the surrounding chateaux.

26/02/2025

SLO Coast Solera: Scar of the Sea

San Luis Obispo hasn’t garnered as much attention as Santa Barbara County or Santa Maria Valley, perhaps, but Mikey Giugni of Scar of the Sea and Gina Giugni of Lady of the Sunshine are changing that. The young couple shares a winery space and produce their own label with differing ethos.

The Solera of Chardonnay from Rancho Tepusquet is not just the most ambitious wine from Scar of the Sea, it's one of the best wines produced anywhere in America today. Started in 2014, it's a 50% solera base containing wines from 2014-2021, all aged together in 500L barrels. The remaining 50% comes from the 2022 harvest of old vine Chardonnay, aged 18 months in 228L barrels. These two components are blended together before bottling. You have all the richness and faint oxidation of the solera with the acidity and reduction of the fresh 2022 finished wine––Only 96 cases produced!

Mikey has spent a decade building partnerships with local growers willing to farm with minimal intervention, at the least, and Gina farms the Chene Vineyard in Edna Valley. One major stylistic different: Mikey tends to ferment his white wines at warmer temperatures and ages longer on the lees. For example, his Chardonnays are inspired by the Jura while Gina's wines are more reminiscent of Chablis.

22/02/2025

Prince of Bel Air: 2019 Taupenot-Merme 1er Cru Star

Taupenot-Merme has been around since the 1600s, but more recently, their wines are turning heads—case in point: their Gevrey Chamber Premier Cru Bel Air. Perched atop Grand Cru Clos de Beze and next to Grand Cru Ruchottes Chambertin, this is one of Burgundy's more hidden secret terroirs. This is a tiny Premier Cru, and Taupenot Merme's 2019 floored me for its ethereal lift and complex layers of flavors going from sweet strawberry and raspberry to cinnamon with hints of forest floor.

In the newer era of the domaine, Romaine Taupenot, who I visited in Dec. 2021, has reduced new oak, opted for 100% destemming, and began favoring precision and transparency instead of plushness of dark fruit, which was the calling card in the past. Organic farming has been the norm since 2001, but viticulture attention has been boosted. The changes even made Kermit Lynch take notice, and the wines have been a recent catch for the legendary Berkeley importer.

2019 reds were lauded upon release as one of the better vintages of the young century, and now, with some time in bottle, I find myself more bullish on this vintage than ever. It simply has it all, and the wines have never seemed to go through a closed or dull phase, they've been insanely delicious from day one even on a pop and pour basis without the benefit of decanting. I'm circling back to the vintage and picking up more wines than I ever thought I would. Initially, Bel Air was one of my favorites from the vintage, and I highly recommend seeing what this Clos de Beze sibling is all about.

20/02/2025

1996 Mosel Shimmer: J.J. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett

Few moments match the thrill of uncovering full cases of perfect provenance wines from legendary producers and all-time vintages. The crystalline 1996 J.J. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is a shining example.

In off-dry Rieslings, as time passes, residual sugar becomes less perceptible. Nearly 30 years on, the 1996 Prüm is deep into this transformation, with its electric blue slate minerality now commanding center stage––just the way we like it!

J.J. Prüm is nearly synonymous with their two flagship vineyards, the Himmelreich and Sonnenuhr. Graach is home to the Himmelreich vineyard, and just upstream is the town of Wehlen and its Sonnenuhr vineyard.

Himmelreich is the cooler site, with less direct sunlight. Slate soils are the norm in the Mosel, but there's substantial clay content here that gives structure but also keeps things very linear in their mineral expression. Green apple and citrus are the hallmarks.

Sonnenuhr takes its name from the giant sundial on the cliff above the steep vineyard––constructed by a J.J. Prüm family descendent in 1842. The direct southern exposure means there's a warmth and generosity to the fruit, which moves more into the peach and tropical realm. But, the high content of Devonian blue slate makes this site so special. Its extreme mineral spine brings elegance and finesse despite the warmer fruit tones.

Both wines in Kabinett form have a track record of drinking brilliantly for decades. Opening examples from the 80s and 90s leaves a sense memory with me that I cannot shake. Young or old, the finish on any J.J. Prüm is simply a case study on shimmering minerality. Link in bio to purchase.

20/02/2025

Brunello for the Burgundian: Le Ragnaie Passo del Lume Spento

It's rare to find a Brunello that stands out more for its brightness and minerality than sheer power and brawn. For years, three producers have defined this special category for me: Salvioni, Soldera, and Stella di Campalto. But a blind tasting last month in New York City forced me to add a fourth—Le Ragnaie.

Riccardo Campinoti founded Le Ragnaie in 2002, yet it has joined the upper echelon of Montalcino’s greats in just two decades. The approach here is one we champion: organic farming, native yeast fermentations, long macerations (upwards of 90 days here), and three years in large neutral Slavonian botti. Campinoti was an early believer in high-altitude vineyards. Until recently, Passo del Lume Spento was the highest-elevation site in all of Montalcino. The 2019 edition is nothing short of spectacular, distinguished by its sense of place and weightlessness on the palate.

Here we find Brunellos of mind-boggling finesse, layered with deep exotic spice. For minutes, I found myself thinking first of Vosne-Romanée rather than Montalcino. When the bottle was revealed, I was stunned. The Burgundian sensibility coarses through these wines––both at just 13.5% alcohol, they captivate with their harmony, lift, and transparency rather than overt richness.

The 2019 vintage is indeed special in Montalcino, and these lower alcohol numbers weren't just ushered in by a cool, wet season––The summer was warm and dry, but ideally-timed rainfalls and massive diurnal temperature shifts paved the way for a Montalcino vintage for the ages. Both Le Ragnaie's blended Brunello and single-vineyard Passo del Lume Spento make a profound statement. Their precision and linear drive are unforgettable––wines that don't just impress, but redefine expectations. Link in bio to purchase.

19/02/2025

La Rioja Alta Apex: 904 "Selección Especial"

It's one of Rioja's great gifts to hold back wine in bottle under the aging requirements of the Gran Reserva designations. La Rioja Alta, alongside its legendary neighbor López de Heredia, stands at the pinnacle of traditional Rioja. In 2015, La Rioja Alta took its flagship "904" Gran Reserva to a new level, introducing optical sorting to select only the finest grapes—choosing berry by berry (not simply cluster by cluster). This precision-driven approach gave rise to a new designation: "Selección Especial."

This Gran Reserva comes from 60+-year-old vines, comprised of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. Wines are traditionally aged in older American barrels. The 2015 vintage produced powerful wines in Rioja, yet what sets this bottling apart is the freshness and fine tannins.

You'll find the classic notes of cinnamon, leather, to***co, coffee, red cherry, and plum up front. But the 904 impresses most by flaunting deeply layered textures, seamlessly woven with an ethereal and haunting finish embodying the pinnacle of Grand Reserva Rioja. Examples from La Rioja Alta dating back to 1973 have been some of the most memorable wine experiences I've ever had.

Five families in 1890 from Rioja and the Basque country founded Sociedad Vinícola de La Rioja Alta to make age-worthy, grand wines. Located just across the street from the iconic Lopez de Heredia, La Rioja Alta is also respected as the prime address for terroir-driven Rioja, emphasizing the elegance and transparency of Tempranillo. Link in bio to purchase.

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