Kogod Wine Merchant (2025)

09/07/2025

Bitouzet-Prieur: Burgundy Classics

Bitouzet-Prieur is Burgundy's Côte de Beaune classic name you need to know. Think of a southern compatriot to Savigny Les Beaune's Pierre Guillemot. The wines have unbeatable value, and haven't played into trends, still producing what their long lineage of family would recognize since 1804.

The five cuvées from Bitouzet-Prieur below are my favorites in a deep lineup of reds and whites. The Bourgogne Rouge is one of the most mineral-driven and precise in all of Burgundy. And, finding a Volnay under $70 with the pedigree to stand up to Lafarge, D'Angerville, De Montille, and Lafon is no small ask. It impresses with the same elegance the village is synonymous with. Volnay's Premier Cru Caillerets is a noticeable step up in every sense, as this vineyard still can rival Taillepieds, the two Ducs, and Chênes as the village's best.

The Chardonnays don't miss a beat, punctuating the brilliance of the domaine with deft hands on both varieties. Meursault 1er Cru Charmes and Puligny's Levrons have both the crispy and baked apple and pear traits on the front end while quickly tightening up with a salty minerality. Both are great examples of the secrets to be found in the quality-price-ratio arena from the two most famous white wine villages on Earth.

07/07/2025

Alsatian Sensation: André Ostertag Dry Riesling

Domaine Ostertag has long gone against the grain of Alsatian expectations, crafting dry, disciplined wines that still summon the region's perpetual sunshine. Fronholz and Grand Cru Muenchberg Rieslings especially imbue the transparency and purity of a mountain lake. These wines are a moment of clarity for Alsace, and all lovers of ethereal yet layered Riesling.

Ostertag studied viticulture in Burgundy and returned home in 1998 to employ organic and biodynamic principles in the vineyard. He wanted to keep energy and verve in his dry wines and chose to age them in stainless steel––think Chablis texture meets dry Mosel Riesling filigree.

27/06/2025

Lopez de Heredia Rioja: Tradition at Its Finest

Lopez de Heredia wines stand out from the pack for their elegance and subtle intensity. Although not light in color, they see less extraction than many neighbors. In short, they are the best case today for Tempranillo's ability to transmit terroir in the most delicate framework possible.

Traditional winemaking here relies on American oak, but the influence of new wood is minimal, if at all. The Bosconia sees five years in wood before additional aging in bottle, and the Tondonia is aged six years. The inherent value in this estate-aging is without peer in the world of wine.

25/06/2025

2021 Giulia Negri Barolo: Serradenari & Marassio

Giulia Negri is one of the brightest young stars in Barolo. But the brilliance of her higher-altitude wines goes beyond just her age. Her style, which emphasizes purity and transparency, is the envy of many of the old-guard producers. Her Barolos have a poise and harmony that's completely unique. Serradenari and Marassio are our two favorite Barolos in her lineup. And I'm happy to offer both bottles and magnums today.

Serradenari is high up in La Morra on sandy soils, and Marassio is perched atop Serradenari on limestone-dominant soils. Marassio sits at the very highest point in all of Barolo. With warming temperatures, these two sites give a translucency that reminds us of times past. All with the polish and sophistication of brilliant winemaking and farming practices. These two are the best of what the brilliant 2021 vintage has to offer.

23/06/2025

Sangiovese Stunner: 2021 Montevertine Rosso Release

I'm happy to offer the signature wine from the greatest Radda estate, the new 2021 Montevertine Rosso di Toscana, in bottle, magnum, and jeroboam. And, no Montevertine offer would be complete without a list of their top cuvée, the singular Le Pergole Torte. This Chianti address, located in the high-altitude setting of Radda, personifies the magic of Sangiovese with its quintessential combo of energy and intensity. There are more terrific Chianti estates now than ever, but there is only one Montevertine!

Montevertine's 18-hectare estate rests high at 425 meters in Radda, one of the coolest zones in Chianti Classico. These limestone soils and a unique climate have a sense of transparency and grace that stands out immediately. The deft use of French barrique (15% new oak at most) is impressive, adding concentration and texture while still harnessing the pure, lithe qualities inherent in Montevertine's wines.

19/06/2025

Hautes Côtes Rising: Dandelion Pet Nat, Aligoté & Pinot Noirs

My favorite Burgndy introduction from the last several years occurred in January when I traveled to Domaine Dandelion in the Hautes Côtes––miles above the better-known vines that have been producing the world's most enviable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for hundreds of years. Morgane Seuillot and Christian Knott set a new path to making the most labor-intensive and thought-provoking natural wines from 4 hectares of organically farmed vines.

One silver lining to the warming global temperatures is the emergence of the Burgundy's Hautes Côtes. In these higher altitude settings, vignerons are being blessed with increased ripeness and complexity––No producer better illustrates the heights capable than Domaine Dandelion.

At Dandelion, all wines are bottled by hand––a process that lends an added dimension of clarity and refinement with an unadulterated sense of place. Pinot Noir is the focus here, with a very limited-production, transcendent 1944-planted Aligoté, as well as a Pet-Nat and Cidre. Link in bio to purchase

18/06/2025

Golden Age: Domaine Leflaive Puligny Magnums

I'm happy to offer a new arrival of magnums from Domaine Leflaive's excellent 2017, 2019 & 2020 vintages covering Puligny Montrachet and Premier Cru Clavoillon. We also have a nice group of bottles arriving next week.

The one and only Domaine Leflaive entered a new golden age since the 2017 vintage burst onto the scene. This fabled estate is historically considered the standard of excellence for Puligny Montrachet, the most celebrated white wine village on earth. Anne-Claude Leflaive's passing in 2015 brought questions about the domaine's direction. That, however, is objectively in the rearview as we've seen nothing but near-perfection from the 2017 vintage on under Brice de la Morandière's watchful eye (the great-grandson of founder Joseph Leflaive).

The late Anne-Claude Leflaive was a champion of organic and biodynamic viticulture. Although she was not the first in Burgundy, she was undoubtedly one of the most high-profile names to lead by example. She took Leflaive to full biodynamic farming in 1997, and her passion in the vines led many other Burgundy greats to follow suit.

17/06/2025

Etna Elegance Personified: Ciro Biondi Outis Rosso

Ciro Biondi is the name to know on Mt. Etna's southern side. While the northern terroir gives way to Nerello Mascalese with firm tannic structure akin to Nebbiolo, here we see a more delicate rendition, one that calls to mind Pinot Noir. Light, perfumed, and silky smooth on the palate, Ciro's Outis Rosso is as delicate a red you'll find produced on this active volcano.

With the addition of 20% Nerello Cappuccio bringing color and backbone, this pale red is full of bright red fruits and a faint note of dusty volcanic soil. Rose petals, cherry, and notes of fig linger on the finish. Since my 2017 visit with Ciro, this red remains my absolute favorite from the south.

16/06/2025

Sonoma Coast Gold: Failla Pinot Noir & Syrah

Failla produces benchmark Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. They are one of the first places to turn for proof of what this Burgundian variety can do in California. Ehren Jordan's formula is simple: Source great fruit and let nature take its course in the cellar, with nothing added or taken away. The wines are incredibly suave with unmistakable terroir imprint. The Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir remains one of the best values around. And, the estate-grown Syrahs are among the best examples in America. Ehren's early years working in the northern Rhône especially lends these Syrahs an old world sensibility––perfect to put in a blind lineup with Cornas and Côte Rôtie.

In 2011, I was lucky to work on Ehren's 13-acre planted vineyard on the extreme Sonoma Coast, in the now recognized Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. I saw up close the attention to detail at every step of production that played a pivotal role in my wine journey to working in Burgundy and opening KWM ten years ago.

13/06/2025

No Stone Unturned: Domaine Chave Saint Joseph

Since 1481, there have been 16 generations of unbroken lineage at the Chave estate along the Rhone River's towering granite slopes. When we look closely at the birthplace of Syrah, there's no name more respected than that of Jean-Louis Chave.

Saint-Joseph's boundaries have expanded immensely since the appellation gained AOC status in 1956, but Chave's choice parcels still represent the best and most serious terroir. Here, there's an underlying mineral component that provides the backbone to their wines, and it's this definition that allows them to age effortlessly. Examples of Saint Joseph from the late 1990s have floored me with their sense of vivacity, freshness, and regal structure.

Jean-Louis Chave joined his father, Gérard, in 1992 after completing his studies in enology at UC Davis. Once home, his primary mission was to re-plant the steep slopes of Saint Joseph—the same hillside where the domaine first began, but the vineyards laid fallow since the 19th century when phylloxera decimated them. Jean-Louis knew these treacherously steep hillsides in Saint Joseph could produce a magnificent yet value-conscious alternative to Hermitage.

It's been nearly three decades since these terraces were re-built by hand, and vines were re-planted among traditional echalas stakes. Today, the results are benchmark Syrahs, reminding us the root of Rhone's success comes from hands-on work and attention to detail, something the Chave family has personified for hundreds of years.

13/06/2025

No Stone Unturned: Domaine Chave Saint Joseph

Since 1481, there have been 16 generations of unbroken lineage at the Chave estate along the Rhone River's towering granite slopes. When we look closely at the birthplace of Syrah, there's no name more respected than that of Jean-Louis Chave.

Saint-Joseph's boundaries have expanded immensely since the appellation gained AOC status in 1956, but Chave's choice parcels still represent the best and most serious terroir. Here, there's an underlying mineral component that provides the backbone to their wines, and it's this definition that allows them to age effortlessly. Examples of Saint Joseph from the late 1990s have floored me with their sense of vivacity, freshness, and regal structure.

Jean-Louis Chave joined his father, Gérard, in 1992 after completing his studies in enology at UC Davis. Once home, his primary mission was to re-plant the steep slopes of Saint Joseph—the same hillside where the domaine first began, but the vineyards laid fallow since the 19th century when phylloxera decimated them. Jean-Louis knew these treacherously steep hillsides in Saint Joseph could produce a magnificent yet value-conscious alternative to Hermitage.

It's been nearly three decades since these terraces were re-built by hand, and vines were re-planted among traditional echalas stakes. Today, the results are benchmark Syrahs, reminding us the root of Rhone's success comes from hands-on work and attention to detail, something the Chave family has personified for hundreds of years.

11/06/2025

Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet: Mags & Jeros

They say magnums show you care. Well, there's no California Cabernet Sauvignon that I care about more than Ridge Monte Bello, and today I'm happy to offer the excellent 2019 vintage in both 1.5L and 3L formats.

In 2019 Monte Bello is especially black-fruited, with Santa Cruz Mountains' aromatic violet explosiveness, mint chocolate, and the longest savory graphite finish outside the left bank of Bordeaux.This is peak California Cabernet Sauvignon, as I see it. Ridge also stands out from other California Cabernets because of its deft use of American oak. The limestone soils of Monte Bello have long stood up to the new oak regimen (70%), providing much-needed oxygen exchange without obscuring terroir.

Monte Bello's history goes as far back as 1885 when the 180 acres were purchased and planted by San Francisco-based doctor Osea Perrone. Surviving prohibition, multiple sales, and re-planting, the Monte Bello estate came into its own when Paul Draper arrived in 1969. While Bordeaux has five first growths to battle annually, Monte Bello sets the standard for me in America.

Kogod Wine Merchant

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