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H&E Fine Wines 關於我們,關於葡萄酒 www.hefinewines.com.hk It was, the initial realm of wine appreciation – the mountain is a mountain, the river is a river.

耶穌說:「葡萄酒是我的血」,於我心有慼慼然。

少年時代,聚眾初嚐葡萄酒,不辨新世界舊世界,但求酒精助興歡天喜地,正合《本草綱目》所言:「葡萄,漢書作蒲桃,可以入酺(歡聚飲酒),飲人則陶然而醉,故有是名」。此為見山是山見水是水。

及後閱歷隨年齡增長,上過WSET又讀了書,滿嘴左岸右岸terroir vintage,兼顧酒花投資期貨上落。追《神之水滴》是指定動作,走火入魔起來,品酒還要唸兩句聶魯達(Pablo Neruda)的情詩。就這樣上天下地吹噓半晚,葡萄酒已不是酒,而是世界大千。如此階段,正是見山不是山,見水不是水。

到如今,未至於千帆過盡,但心情已為淡定,就似是隔岸看花。遇有美妙感通處,難以明言,唯有微笑拈華。或如康德(Immanuel Kant)所說,美是無目的性的(purposeless),不需太多外加概念。其實好酒在乎良辰,更在乎良伴,活在當下,晉時陸機有詩《飲酒樂》可證:



「蒲萄四時芳醇,琉璃千鐘舊賓。夜飲舞遲銷燭,朝醒弦促催人。」

那已是,見山復是山,見水又是水了。

- 紅七哥

‘For this (wine) is my blood’ said Jesus, this statement resounds yet not settled in my heart. I tasted the first drop with my youth and buddies, couldn’t tell the new world from the old, only saw the dazzles with alcohol. According to the Compendium of Materia Medica (Ben Cao Gang Mu, compiled by Li Shizhen), grapes could be made into wine for enjoyment, the indulged ones will be in a state of drunkenness. Then, I experienced and grew up, have taken WSET and become eloquent with wine jargons, En-Primeur was on my investment list. I was in frenzy, reading the comic series “Les Gouttes de Dieu”, reciting Pablos Neruda’s lines while drinking wine. Wine was linking me to a whole wide world, it is panoramic. It then, was another realm – the mountain is not a mountain, the river is not a river. Now, my heart returns from the wild extravagance, and becomes an observer. At times wonders of wine have my heart throbs with feelings beyond words, I seek no sensibility but a smile. To Immanuel Kant, beauty is purposeless, it is in itself and nothing else. Wine is good, with the moment and the company, only to live with it. Lu Ji, a poet in the Jin Dynasty, has this well described in the poem “The Joy of Wine”. The arduous odour of wine in its season,
is there with the elegant company. In the nocturnal feast time is not,
a flush of morning light brings in the past. It is, indeed, a mountain is a mountain, a river is a river.

- Red Rascal

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